Sunday, July 27, 2014

But I would walk five hundred miles, And I would walk five hundred more…


Well not me exactly. Or at all. But as you will see walking pays an important part of this blontary. So, thanks Proclaimers for providing the title to this week’s entry.

I am struck this week by the willingness to sacrifice for one’s belief. I mentioned a few weeks ago that Ramadan was starting – 30 days of fasting by believing Muslims. During daylight hours, observant Muslims go without any food or drink; they break their fast with Iftar, or the meal that breaks the fast. I have watched staff members and students observe their fast and gather in our auditorium for evening prayer and Iftar. I am not a stranger to fasting but I haven’t come close to fasting for such a long period. I am impressed with those who have fulfilled this important aspect of their religious observance.

Now to the walking part. Shifting from Muslims to Hindus, this week marked an important Hindu observance: Kanvar Yatra. During Kanvar Yatra participants carry water from the Ganges to their local temples that honor Shiva (see below), where the water is used in purification ceremonies. This is where the above referenced 500 miles comes in. It is not at all unusual for Kanvarias to cover hundreds of miles. Originally participants walked or ran the entire distance, usually barefoot. Now, most often they participate in teams, taking turns in walking or running. In between, they ride in the back of trucks, in cars, or on motorcycles. One characteristic of most of the trucks is blaring VERY LOUD music. You can hear the trucks coming from a long ways away. Participants keep going 24 hours a day until they complete their journeys. There are rest stations, provided by local communities, to support those who are walking. At these rest stations there is food, drink, and even medical attention for those who need it. Providing support to the Kanvarias is considered as much a form of worship or service as actually making the journey.



Also originally the water was carried in simple pots on either end of a bamboo pole carried across the shoulders. Those simple arrangements still exist but they are increasingly rare. They have been replaced with elaborate scaffolding of light wood and paper or fabric. Even full shrines are carried by teams of walkers, some with colored lights all over them. Here are some pictures Rae and I took. All of these were at night so the quality isn't great but I think you’ll get the feel for what we saw.

Rae here,

I’m going to add a few other random thoughts and tidbits that I got out of watching part of this process.  It seems that there are only male runners.  There seems to be very little involvement of women.  Women are mostly standing along the road and giving out some food, water, or just cheering on the runners.

 Phil talked about the trucks that travel along with the runners and play loud music.  Sometimes the music is live, being made by the actual riders with a heavy emphasis on drumming, but quite often it seems to be broadcast from some sort of recorded source.  There is a platform built on the top of the truck and that is where the musicians or other supporters sit, stand and dance around.  They are usually quite enthusiastic and excited.  It would be pretty hard to miss the fact that they are coming your way.  I don’t know if the open space below the platform is used as a resting place for the runners or a place to store supplies, or what.  While the picture we got is blurry hopefully you get a bit of an idea.    



Most of the runners are dressed in orange.  I’m not sure of all the significance other than it is connected to saffron, and that is what they call that color of orange.   Saffron in Hinduism is a highly religious color associated with sacrifice, abstinence, and the quest for light and salvation. Hopefully that helps explain some of the significance. 

The walkers/runners of the pilgrimage make their journey down the same roads that all the rest of us travel and I know we have mentioned on more than one occasion how crazy and crowded the traffic here, and other places is.  In most areas there are no special provisions made in the way of clearing a lane or blocking off areas.  The trucks and runners somehow manage to make their way through the traffic and the traffic somehow manages to accommodate them.  I guess when you are used to avoiding cows, you can also avoid some noisy trucks that are announcing runners. 

It was a fun to watch and learn a bit more about.  Phil picked me up after work one evening and we traveled a ways out of Delhi to try to get a better look at the runners and a bit of the process.  It was getting dark and most all our shots were taken from the car so the quality is not great, but hopefully you get the idea.  It is a highly religious event that takes place in the middle of the everyday world.  Amazing, crazy, and inspiring.

Hope you enjoy the pictures. 

















       


Namaste.                         

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